After 26+ years of employment, I decided to go the entrepreneurship route and left Salesforce at the end of Jan 2020. To celebrate this new beginning, I had planned a month-long, 2600 Km cycle tour from Bangalore to Agartala passing through Bangladesh. Unfortunately, I developed an injury in my forearm around mid-Jan, which made me give up the idea of the long tour. However, as my arm recovered a bit, I decided to do a shorter version of the trip from Kolkata to Agartala via Bangladesh. This meant I had to either transport my cycle to Kolkata or rent/buy a cycle in Kolkata. Considering that the entire route is flat with an elevation of between 5 Meters and 25 Meters above sea level, I figured I could just fly to Kolkata and do the tour on a regular single-speed Hero cycle. Here is an account of this tour and my experiences - more pictures than text. I hope you enjoy it. I've been asked, why Bangladesh? Why not? The adventure of crossing a country border on a cycle, cycling in our neighboring country, and experiencing a new lifestyle in slow motion are all my motivations for the tour. Here's the entire tour route completed over 6 days with 1 rest day.
Day-1 - 26-Feb-2020 - Bangalore - Kolkata - Benapole I took an early morning flight from Bangalore to Kolkata and then Uber from the airport to Mukherjee Cycles. It took some time to buy and get the new cycle ready to go - the rear wheel had a bit of a wobble, and it took the mechanic some time to get it fixed.
I started cycling around 11:30 am. Once I crossed the city/town traffic, the cycling was pleasant on tree-lined roads and slowly got used to the new bike. Stopped for a roadside lunch around 1:30 pm and reached the Petrapole border around 4:20 pm. The immigration formalities on both sides took around 15 minutes. Upon entering Bangladesh, I was checked for body temperature and then proceeded to Parjatan Motel, where I had booked the stay. After freshening up, I went to the market to withdraw some money (Taka) at the ATM and buy some fruits for the next day. I had my dinner of dal, rice, and omelet, at the motel restaurant and turned in for the night.
Entering Petrapole - Benapole Border Crossing - On the Indian Side
Day-2 - 27-Feb-2020 - Benapole to Magura
Started day 2 around 6:40 am. The first 10-12 Km encountered road construction and rough stone covered roads, but the weather was beautiful and foggy, so that got me going. I had my first black tea of the trip and continued cycling, enjoying the greenery and new sights. Met Raj at one of my black tea stops. He had some cycling adventure stories to tell having cycled to India, Pakistan, Afghanistan, Iran, and several European countries in the late 80s. He gave me a couple of pointers on my trip - use a better cycle for such trips and travel in a group - both valid points. I reached Magura around 3:30 pm and tried my luck at getting accommodation at the Government circuit house. The official there made some calls and got me a place at the water board guest house, which was just a couple of km away. I had early dinner at a local joint and turned in early for the night.
Exotic flowers headed to Dhaka and for export
Chai break with Raj talking about his cycling exploits
Day-3 - 28-Feb-2020 - Magura to Manikganj
Today would be the day I would be crossing several small and large rivers starting with the one right outside Magura - Kumar river. I had an excellent breakfast of parotta and aloo bhaji and even indulged in a rasogulla. Google maps showed me a route via Faridpur to Goalanda. However, I decided to take internal routes through villages to cut my travel distance by 10-15 Km. While the roads were patchy at times, traffic was less, and I was closer to village life. Reached the mighty Padma river around 12:30 pm and used a ferry to cross over. Reached Manikganj by 5:30 pm and found a hotel to stay. At dinner, I had a discussion with the restaurant owner and waiters on India's CAA and NPR. Their views were that Muslims in India were being illtreated and questioned why Hindus and Muslims can't live peacefully like they do in Bangladesh. I assured them that we also live peacefully in India and that CAA and NPR would cause no harm to Muslim citizens in India.
Crossing Kumar river first thing in the morning
Crossing Madhumati river
Madhumati river
Onboard the ferry
Nice to see a Tata workshop
Discussing CAA and NPR with the locals
Day-4 - 29-Feb-2020 - Manikganj to Dhaka
Day 4 was a shorter ride, so started late around 7:30 am. Traffic and smoke both increased as I got closer to Dhaka. Stopped briefly at the National Parliament house to take some pictures. Reached hotel around noontime, checked in, cleaned up, and got lunch at a nearby mall. In the evening, I spent time with a few Dhaka Salesforce Developer Group members, and they treated me to a nice dinner. Coincidentally, the restaurant where we had dinner was also hosting a wedding reception, so I was able to witness a Bangladeshi wedding reception as well.
National Parliament House, Dhaka
Chandrima Udyan (opposite National Parliament House)
Day-5 - 01-Mar-2020 - Rest day in Dhaka
I spent the rest day visiting Sonargaon and Panam City with my Dhaka Salesforce Developer Community friends Zakir Hossain, Yousuf Zaman, Imtiaz, and Parvaj. Started the day early at 6:30 am. First stop breakfast at Panam City. Panam Nagar is 30 miles southeast of Dhaka and was established in the early 19th century by wealthy Hindu traders. We then visited the Sonargaon museum and spent some time there before wrapping up the visit early afternoon.
Panam Nagar
With Zakir, Yousuf, Imtiaz, and Parvaj at Sonargaon Museum
Crossing a traditional bamboo bridge called Sako or Hakka in local language
View from the hotel room
View from the hotel room
Day-6 - 02-Mar-2020 - Dhaka to Agartala
Dhaka to Agartala is around 140 Km, and initially, I had planned to cover over two days. However, having rested the previous day and feeling fresh, I figured I will push to cover the distance in a single day. Hence started the day early at around 5:00 am. Took a shortcut on smaller village roads and was rewarded with a couple of fantastic photo opportunities - a mosque reflected on the waters of a clear lake in the early morning sunlight and a loom. I made good progress in reaching Bhairab Bazaar by noon, and Google helped me find an ISKCON run Jagannath vegetarian restaurant.
Starting from Dhaka
Sunrise on a beautiful day
Makeshift Krishna temple at Jagannath Restaurant - Bhairab Bazar
Lunch at Jagannath Restaurant - Bhairab Bazar
After lunch, I crossed the Meghana river and passed a series of flour mills. At Brahmanbaria stopped for refreshment, and the shop owner was so excited to hear about my trip that he made me record a small video about my journey - should have asked him to mail it to me.
As I reached Akhaura and closer to the Indian border, there were vast expanses of rice fields on both sides.
Reached the border around 4:00 pm and finished customs and immigration in around 30 minutes. I was checked for body temperature on the Indian side and then proceeded to move out of the Agartala checkpost area. Ashish, a Tripura Tourism official, had seen me at the immigration counter and came to talk to me and provided me a set of brochures on Tripura tourism. Though I was not able to do any touristy things this time, the information provided will help me plan future Tripura visit - thanks, Ashish.
Just a few more minutes to get back home - it always feels great to be back home
At Bangladesh Customs
It's official
With Ashish, the Tripura tourism official
In another 10 minutes or so, I was in Agartala city and a short while later found a place to stay. After freshening up, I found a Momo restaurant nearby and had amazing momos served with some soup too.
Day 6 - Agartala to Bangalore I spent the morning cycling around Agartala looking for a place to sell the cycle and was able to find someone who bought it for 2K - 50% depreciation in a week 😊. I went back to the same restaurant and had another fantastic meal. Then headed to the airport reminiscing about the trip.
Fried momos, egg curry, and parotta - fantastic stuff
This trip has been a fantastic experience in traveling light, making adjustments as you go, and taking life as it comes. Monetary wealth is not the only way to measure happiness. Explore the world and accumulate experiences. Let's be grateful for what we have and appreciate the freedom we have. Thanks to Zakir and friends who provided me information before the tour and took care of me while I was in Dhaka. Thanks to all the Bangladeshis I met on the trip and making me feel welcome in your country. Thanks to the Hero cycle - it's not comfortable and pain to ride, but it did not give any trouble in the entire journey. What could I have done to make it even better? Learned at least basic Bangla. What next? Probably another tour at the end of this year. Interested? Let's talk.
